How to Wire and Install a Security Alarm System (DIY Tips: Door Contacts)

When you are ready to design your alarm system layout, for installation, you must first decide where to mount the alarm control. If you have an unfinished basement, you will drill and wire the joists to the area you select for the panel. Most of the time it will be the mechanical or furnace room.

If you are working in a single story building, you will run the cables in an unfinished attic and

dropping the wires to the control.

If you are in a commercial application, you will run the cables on top of false ceilings, along joists, or possibly through exposed conduit.

If you are in a place where there is no place to put all these cables and hide them, then you are an ideal candidate for a wireless system.

You want to make sure that wherever you decide to mount your alarm control panel, you have a device like a motion detector or door contact to protect it. Leaving the control panel in an unprotected area could make it easier to bypass it in the event of a theft. Consider running the cables through the basement and then jumping them into a closet, in the protected area of ​​the house. If you’re wondering “what about the exposed wires in the basement? Don’t.” Cutting the wires would double the opening of the device they are going to and cause an alarm condition if the system was armed.

If you opt for wireless connection in the system of your choice, choose a central location in the home or business that receives a strong radio signal from all points of protection. Remember that even in the wireless system there are some cables that need to be run. Most of the time they are the keypad, the siren, the power supply and the phone line. Consider these tours when choosing your central location.

Provide lighting for your chosen area, as this will be where you will do most of the installation work. Lay down a tarp and place all products and tools and a garbage bag in this area. Over the years, I have learned to come to my central location to get what I need and return anything that I am not using to this location when I am done with them, especially the tools. If you don’t run an organized installation, you will spend half your time searching for a tool, part, spool of wire, etc. A tool belt is useful for the tools you will need everywhere, such as new drill bits, masking tape, wire cutters, screwdrivers, B connectors, a small spirit level, post finder, a clean rag, etc.

You also want to clean on the go. When you finish running each wire and installing the device that will go there, take the time to clean up and take all the trash to the bag in your control zone. Being anal is a good thing, when you are doing a quality installation.

As you lead each wire into the control room, measure where the wire will enter the hole in the control panel, then add about a foot of wire before cutting it with your diagonal pliers. Place a piece of light-colored electrical tape around the wire about 5 inches from the end and write on the tape with a marker or permanent marker where it goes.

If your home or business is under construction, you may choose to pre-wire it for safety reasons. Prewiring is beneficial in the ability to place each device exactly where you want it. The placement of cables and distribution boxes before construction is completed depends on your ability to read the architects’ drawings and understand where cabinets, appliances, and electrical devices will be positioned accurately. If you opt for pre-wiring, be sure to drill your own holes in the wall studs and joists. Many lazy alarm technicians will run through electrical and plumbing holes and think they are easily getting away. The problem is, if an electrician or plumber fails the inspection, they will have to pull cables and pipes to relocate them to the inspector’s specifications. They are not likely to worry about your cable when they do.

The best time to run cables into a pre-wiring is immediately after the electricians leave and before the insulators arrive.

If you’re ready to start laying cables, let’s start with the front door. If you go down to the basement, you will work low on the opening side of the door. If you are pulling up the cables, you will be working on the top of the door. Let’s use below for our example. What type of contact will you use? Surface or flush mount? If you’re running cables anyway, why don’t you take the time to install recessed contacts so they’re out of place when the door is closed? Set up your drill with a standard 3/8-inch length bit.

At the door jam, about 4 inches from the bottom, begin drilling at an angle toward the basement. Switch to your 3/8-inch by 12-to-18-inch long bit and continue drilling into the basement, finally switch to your 5-foot long bell hanger bit and continue drilling until you come out into the basement. Pull the long bit out of the hole and remove it from the hole. Insert the thin end of the long piece through the hole.

Go to the basement with a flashlight, diagonal wire cutter, tape, marker, staple gun with staples, and a spool or box of 2-conductor 22-gauge wire. Strip the plastic from the end of your cable about 2 inches. Twist the 2 wires together, feed them through the hole at the end of the thin side of the long piece, and twist it around itself. Go back up and pull the wire to the hole. Tie a large, loose, temporary knot in the wire after placing it there, so it doesn’t fall into the hole. Leave at least 12 inches on the top floor so you can work with the cable.

Go back down and start winding enough wire to get to your control panel. Staple the cables with an industrial stapler such as a T22 along the joists in a neat and orderly manner from the drop hole to the control panel. Make sure not to penetrate the cable with each staple, if you do, remove it now and re-staple. These bugs are hard to track down after you walk away. Make sure you go down the wall stud to the point where it pops into the back of the control panel (approximately chest height) and leaves an extra foot or more of cable before cutting from the spool. Mark your cable with the tape and marker several inches from the end.

Congratulations! You did your first race. Be sure to gather and return all your tools to the starting point so you know where they are when you need them.

Get your 3/8-inch recessed magnet and contact. You will need a drill, an extension cord (unless you are using a cordless drill), electrical tape, and a wire cutter. Divide the end of your cable and remove a small amount of plastic covering from each end. Do the same for your contact unless you have the kind that has small screws to hold the wires. Twist each end of the wire to one end of the contact wire and tape it tightly and individually. After doing each one, you can wrap a piece of tape around everything tightly. (It doesn’t matter which wire you go to which wire, as it is a circuit wire and does not have a positive or negative side.) Carefully insert the cable into the hole and press the contact. Now mark the door where the magnet will meet the contact, when the door is closed. Stabilize the door and drill a 3/8 “hole deep enough to place the magnet. Repeat for each door you want to be contacted. We always suggest that you contact all perimeter doors.

We will post additional instructions for device wiring on The Experts Know! Alarms website for your access.

Check back soon! as we will add DIY device installation techniques often.

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