When Miuccia Prada ditched her signature feminine aesthetic in favor of dark chunky knits, animal prints and sky-high platforms for her fall collection, she sent a strong message: the prissy lady had officially been supplanted by the 21st-century superwoman. (Presumably, the former muse is fending for herself somewhere in the urban jungle…) And Prada was not alone: ​​in New York, Milan and Paris, the catwalk heroine of the day represented a dramatic departure from the fresh-faced babes and submissive sex kittens from seasons past. The wardrobe change was also accompanied by a new crop of beauty trends, with blood-red lips that dwarfed gloss, fiery eyes that ousted beach bunny bronzer, and straight hair that trumped more romantic styles. Here are the top six beauty trends for fall 2006.

hot lips

Along with pants, tulip skirts and ankle boots, bold lipstick is part of the powerful woman’s fall uniform. (Think of it as war paint to adorn her no-nonsense new attitude.) Tuleh’s 1940s-style collection inspired a high-gloss berry lip, while Valentino’s matte red added a splash of color to the designer’s largely colorless collection. Jill Stuart went for a bright purple, while Behnaz Sarafpour, Miu Miu and Diane von Furstenberg went for classic crimson. At Alice Roy, the almost black lips were a perfect complement to the designer’s avant-garde, neo-punk vision.

Trend Tips: The key to wearing bold lip colors is to keep the rest of your makeup minimal (pairing this trend with a smoky eye or a strong blush is sure to lead to disaster). For added staying power, first add a clear coat of foundation to lips, followed by a light coat of powder and lip liner. Apply the color in several light coats, blotting with a tissue between coats.

Best bets: Nars Lipstick in Fire Down Below, Chanel Rouge Hydrabase in Shanghai Red, Tarte Double Ended Lipgloss in Bonnie & Clyde, Clinique Quickliner for Lips in Deep Red, Sephora Jumbo Pencil in Raspberry, Sally Hansen Diamond Lip Treatment in Always Asher.

eyes have it

Eye makeup was unusually restrained for spring, but it made a serious comeback at fall shows. On Allessandro Dell’Acqua, the eyes were rimmed with sexy rock goddess flecks; in Rochas, the lines blurred with moody black shadows; and at Missoni and Narciso Rodriguez, models wore thick ’80s-inspired eyeliner on their lower lids. Victor & Rolf and Armani shifted the focus to the retro-winged upper lid, while Zac Posen, J. Mendel and Badgley Mischka opted for an eye that was both dramatic and wearable. He probably won’t see Christian Dior or Gucci theatrical looks at the office, but both will provide plenty of inspiration for more experimental beauty junkies.

Trend Tips: If you’re using a pencil that’s too hard, heat it under the hair dryer for a few seconds to soften the tip (just be careful not to melt the liner or burn yourself). If you have small eyes, keep the emphasis on the top, rather than the lower lid. And if you have bags or dark circles, use concealer; without it, the dark eyeliner will only emphasize the problems under the eyes.

Best bets: MAC Eyeshadow in Black Tied, Urban Decay Glide-on Pencil in Zero, Sue Devitt Eye Intensifier Pencil in Pointe-Noire, Goldie Smudgable Liquid Line in Maha, Too Faced Lava Gloss Super Glossy Eyeliner in Chocolate, NYC Brow/Eye Liner Pencil in 921.

devil may matter

The minimalist makeup that swept the spring runways has also made an appearance for fall. But this time, the barely visible faces seem to make a more subversive statement (think unabashedly nude, rather than coquettishly nude). In the absence of color, the spotlight was on Yves Saint Laurent, Chloé and Fendi’s strong brows, while Jil Sander and Balenciaga’s understated approach put the models’ luminous skin and bone structure center stage. . At Marc Jacobs, carefully chosen pops of neutral color complemented the designer’s layered collection.

Trend Tips: For a face that looks simple but not disheveled, invest in a good quality brow gel and concealer. To camouflage imperfections and even out the complexion, use a tinted moisturizer or primer. And to keep your skin from looking flat, apply an iridescent highlighter along your cheeks and brows.

Best bets: Laura Mercier Foundation Primer, Smashbox Artificial Light Luminizing Lotion, Benefit Moon Beam, Lauren Hutton Tinted Moisturizer + Sheer Concealer, Biotherm Light Catch Moisturizing Illuminating Concealer, Sue Devitt Aromatic Camouflage Concealer.

light side

Although dark lips reigned supreme on several catwalks, other designers opted for pale pouts, the perfect contrast to this season’s intense eye makeup. Chanel’s beige lip evoked the ’60s, Dolce & Gabbana’s gold version complemented the designer’s opulent couture, and Burberry’s pale pink transformed fresh-faced girl models into cool ice queens. Alberta Ferretti’s powdery take was paired with a shimmering gold eye, while Celine and Carolina Herrera each offered a sheer take on the trend.

Trend Tips: Though it’s stunning on the runway, a pale lip that’s too beige or matte can look killer in real life. To avoid looking like a corpse, choose lipsticks and glosses with a little peach (if your skin tone is warm) or pink (if you’re cool), and finish with a touch of transparent gloss.

Best bets: MAC Lipglass in Uberpeach, Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss, Jaqua Carmel Cappuccino Lip Whip, Shu Uemura Lolishine Rouge in 968, Too Faced Diamond Gloss in Lilac, Clarins Color Quench Lip Balm No. 10.

The advertisement

Nails went to extremes this season, from clear, bare tips to gothic-style dark tips (with almost nothing in between). Gone are the glitter, glitter and nail art – the sophisticated lady of fall wears ombre nail colors or none at all. Most designers chose a colorless look, including J. Mendel and Derek Lam. At Marc Jacobs, the models didn’t wear polish, but kept their nails pristine with Essie’s Cuticle Pen. In contrast, Nanette Lepore’s wore Essie’s Wicked, a rich burgundy brown, while Alice Roy’s were treated to an even darker shade in keeping with the show’s near-black lips.

Trend Tips: Colorless nails and dark, vampy polishes can draw attention to blemishes, so make sure your cuticles are clean. Also, keep the tips no longer than half the length of the nail bed and use a ridge filler or ridge filler base coat to create a smooth surface.

Best bets: Essie Cuticle Pen and Wicked Nail Colour, Lippmann Collection Nail Polish in Sophisticated Lady, OPI Ridge Filler, La Cross Curved-Blade Nail Scissors, Avon Nailwear Nail Enamel in Femme, Elizabeth Arden Nail Polish in Christopher St. Cappuccino C, Creative Nail Design Nail Polish in voodoo.

straight edge

It seems like it was last year, and it was, that women finally ditched their flat irons, and sure enough, the shows saw various wavy styles and romantic hairstyles. But the biggest news in hair was the return of long, straight locks. Getting the look can be exhausting for many women, but Carolina Herrera, Bill Blass, Luca Luca, Stella McCartney and Versace all opted for sleek center-parted locks. Pucci, Costume National and Ralph Lauren all chose similar styles with just a bit of curve at the bottom, while straight braids were parted to the side and left loose at Marni, casually secured at Moschino and deftly slicked at Giambattista Valli.

Trend Tips: For smoother results and to reduce the risk of damage, apply a dime-sized amount of a heat protectant and de-frizzing product evenly to all damp strands. When it dries, work in small sections from the bottom to the top of your head, and if you’re using an iron, keep it moving to prevent singeing.

Best bets: Farouk Chi Ceramic Flatiron, Sedu Ionic Ceramic Tourmaline Straightener, Frederic Fekkai Glossing Cream, Ojon Hydrating Styling Cream, John Frieda Straight Answer Styling Spray, Philip B. Drop Dead Straightening Baume, ISO Tamer Smoothing Defrizzing Gel, Paul Mitchell Super Skinny Serum.