Stained glass is one of the many dying arts. However, it is coming back. Designs can be traditional, modern, abstract, or realistic. Learn how to create your own stained glass window designs. The do’s and don’ts, and what to keep in mind when drawing a pattern. Lead or copper foil panels can be placed directly into a wooden frame or enclosed within a double-glazed unit – in effect, a triple-glazed window. You can also make hanging pieces such as suncatchers, mirrors, wall hangings, clocks, sconces, and many more.

Before beginning a pattern, it’s a good idea to be aware of some of the restrictions that are specific to working with glass in the LED or copper foil methods. When your pattern is complete and ready to be made, feel free to contact me through my website, details of which can be found at the end of the article.

1. Try to avoid a crossroads (X) or lines that go directly from one side to the other in your pattern, especially for sheet copper, as this would be a weak point in the finished piece. (This isn’t as important for lead work, and many traditional patterns include these shapes, but it’s still best to avoid if possible.)
2. Try to avoid the inner straight angels (or sharper as in the letter V). as the glass will most likely crack extending from the right angle point. Therefore, there must be a line starting from any point (similar to the letter Y).
3. Try not to make a pattern with too many details. This is especially important for LED work, because if the glass pieces are too small, they won’t show through because of the lead. Think if the correct glass will add detail for me.
4. The more details there are, the larger the piece will need to be. This won’t necessarily make the piece more difficult to make, unless it’s very large, then handling the large sheets of glass can make it just plain awkward.
5. Some of the pattern will be lost because it is covered by the lead or copper foil (more will be lost when lead is used than when copper foil is used). the amount lost will depend on the thickness used. For an A4 size piece, an 8 or 10mm lead is sufficient, but a thicker lead may be required for larger pieces or to round the edge. Rather than detract from the pattern, it can be a feature of a well-planned pattern.

Things you will need to make patterns include: paper (liner paper is helpful as if it gets wet when the piece is being made it will not fall apart), tracing/acetate paper, pencil, marker, ruler, eraser, ruler, and/or or tape measure depending on the size. A true stained glass designer is capable of creating pieces using a variety of methods. These include:

• Create a pattern to match existing panels or windows.
• Creating a pattern from photos.
• Adaptation of existing patterns.
• Working from an idea.

Before starting the pattern for a fitted piece, the size must be determined, the best way to do it is to use 2 methods.

1. Measure the opening to fit (the space behind the trim that the glass will fit into) at several points, height and width.
2. Lay paper over the area and draw around the tight fitting area.

Using these two methods ensures that the pattern will be the correct size and shape (the opening may not actually be rectangular or square). Next, it’s a good idea to draw a 5mm line from the 2 sides (this makes it easier to fit and gives you a bit of room for error when you’re making the part). straighten remaining 2 sides. The pattern can be drawn inside the inner lines.

Creating a pattern to match existing panels or windows

Will the place where the new window will go be the same size as the existing ones? If so, the easiest way to create a pattern would be with tracing paper, or by rubbing (like when you were a kid rubbing leaves). But:

• Take pictures of existing panels so you know what you’re working on.
• Draw a grid to scale on both the photo and the paper the pattern will be drawn on (this could be just 2 lines to divide into quarters, or a grid with more lines depending on detail) this will help hold the pattern to scale and pattern details in place.
• Keep in mind that the new piece may not be the same shape and the pattern details may need to be stretched or squashed
• Begin drawing the details of the pattern, using the grid photo as a reference.

Create a pattern from photos.

Artistic license may be required for colors, shapes, and backgrounds.

• Print the photo as close to the desired size as possible. If the photo cannot be printed to the exact size. Draw a grid to scale on both the photo and the paper the pattern will be drawn on (this could be just 2 lines to divide into quarters, or a grid with more lines depending on detail) this will help hold the pattern to scale and pattern details in place.
• Look at the photo with a critical eye. What detail can be lost (whether textured or patterned glass can be added, i.e. like animal fur).
• Trace the lines that will remain with a felt-tip pen.
• if the highlighted sections fit the constraints of working with glass, if not, add any additional lines as necessary or slightly modify the shapes.
• When you are satisfied with the pattern, trace over the altered image and the pattern is complete.

Adaptation of existing patterns

Pattern books can be very helpful, but there may be certain aspects of a pattern that you don’t like or just want to tweak. This can be especially true for free-hanging pieces, as the shape can be altered by losing sections of the edges, or added interest by losing parts of the middle (try not to weaken the piece, make sure each part has at least 2 points of contact). Alternatively, additional pieces can be added for added detail or interest.

• Photocopy or trace the pattern
• Lay tracing paper over the pattern and draw over the aspects as desired, and change the details as required.

Work from an idea (this requires the greatest amount of drawing skill)

It can be a very detailed and specific idea (I like the view from my garden which includes a view of Criffel, with the trees and fields) or vague (ie I like the hills and sunsets). In the first instance it would be advisable to take a photo to work. Whereas, in the second instance, a bit more questions may be required (do you live near a specific hill that might have inspired you? If so, it might be advisable to include the shape of the hill, if not just the shape). general of the hill). be fine to use.

• If the part is a fitted part, follow the guidelines listed above. To hang freely, decide the size.
• Roughly sketch the design, until you’re happy with how it looks.
• Look at the layout with a critical eye to see if the layout conforms to the constraints. Asking a second person to look at the design (telling them what is needed) can be a good idea, as some aspects can often be overlooked.
• Alter anything that needs to be altered.